4. Lessons and Tips

It was indeed a great trip and well worth the calculated risks we took. It did rain more than we could have imagined, but at least that kept the crowds down and made amazing waterfalls. We weren’t really fit enough for the distances we were paddling, but we took it slow, got through it and recovered in time. And you just cannot compare the intensity of having a humpback surface within 100 meters, or paddling up to the face of a mile wide glacier while in a kayak to being on land or a boat. Plus the bears, otters, puffins and seals seem less wary and so our encounters were startlingly immediate.

To summarize some of my biggest lessons learned:

• Kayaking is not scary. I am the first one to admit I was completely intimidated before I tried it. Even as an experienced canoe paddler, I was convinced it was a completely different sport where you spent half your time upside down or being pummelled by waves. The truth is that while you are closer to the water level, that actually improves your stability, especially in a touring-loaded tandem. Now, perching in a canoe seems much tipsier than having my center of gravity below the surface. And the sheer peacefullness further put me at ease.
• Kayaking is easy to learn. I had refused to believe the people who had said you learn the balancing almost instinctively and it’s far more efficient and thus less work than a canoe. Well, they are right. To enjoy using a tandem in fairly calm water doesn’t require you to train for eskimo rolling in white water. In fact, we didn’t have to practice capsizing and re-entry at all. Even paddling through moderate waves and managing the beach landings and launches required less skill than expected. Plus I found the fast and easy steering control absolutely addictive from the start.
• A good local guide is well worth the cost. Our main reason for wanting a guide (learning to use the kayaks) wasn’t the half of what we got. We set out at the same time as a couple who had minimal experience but were going it alone in a rental, and if Dave hadn’t provided them extra guidance and support they would have risked serious troubles. Not only did he know the weather and tide patterns, but he also had excellent insights on navigation and map reading. Further, he knew all the camping low down and even had special access to restricted beaches for us. By the end, we had gained skills far beyond packing and paddling a kayak, and could realistically assess our skill level for picking and planning our next adventure.
• Kayaking should be easy. Proper kayak paddling takes far less work than canoe paddling, so when it was too hard, it was a reminder that I was doing it wrong. I had to keep working on proper form and stop myself clenching and digging. So, though I still wished I had done some pushups and arm exercises in the weeks before the trip, Dave wasn’t crazy to take us 10 miles our first day.

If you are going to try this, especially in Alaska, here are a few more tips:

• Kayaking is a watersport, so you do get wet. Even the rare periods when it wasn’t raining water was flying at us from our partner’s and our own paddles or spraying from waves. The best plan is to expect to be wet, wearing layers of light wool or polypro clothing under rain gear. At times we were freezing sitting in glacial cold water with gusting winds, and soon after we were sweating from paddling, so we were constantly donning and doffing, opening and closing our layers.
• To ensure a warm dry sleep, Wendy taught us to keep a separate set of “sacred” clothes- they never leave the tent except in a separate dry bag, so you always have something comfy to go to bed in. It is so tempting to change into them when you climb dripping out of the boat, but if they get rained on, then what?
• Tall people might not be able to fit the rudders properly, and should let a shorter partner steer. F settled for “close enough” but went so numb after our first 4 hour outing, that he couldn’t stand when exiting. (Yes, this means he had the delight of falling into the ice cold water.)
• Have light gloves even if it’s warm- the paddle will rub hot-spots on various parts of your hands until you build some calluses
• Bring multiple head coverings- we used hoods, rain hats and knit caps depending on the temperature. Hoods sometimes impeded communication, but were invaluable in blowing rain. A separate dry knit cap for sleeping would have been great.
• You don’t need to bear-proof your first day’s food (snacks, lunch and dinner), so if you are short on room put that stuff in a separate watertight bag.
  

We are now strong proponents of kayak adventuring for novices. Certainly if you have the time, money and commitment to start with lessons and build yourself up to a big adventure you might get even more out of a trip like ours. But if doing it that way is too big a barrier to getting started, then jumping right in to a well-guided trip is not completely crazy. In fact, it’s a suprisingly fast and economical way to learn. And if you happen to be in Alaska, then there is no reason to hold out for learning in a more temperate climate.

Resources

• Lonely Planet Alaska online.
• More Misty Fjords info.